Woolworth on 5th
From February to May 1960, civil-rights activists—mostly African-American students, including John Lewis, Diane Nash, and James Lawson—staged sit-ins in multiple locations around Nashville to protest racial segregation and inequality. Throughout the southeast sit-ins happened at lunch counters, and the ubiquitous Woolworth department stores were a popular location for the peaceful protests.
The last Woolworths in this country closed in 1997. Nashville’s location on Fifth Avenue was occupied by other retailers after closing (most recently Dollar General) until earlier this month when Woolworth on 5th opened in the location, a new restaurant and entertainment venue renovated by Tom Morales and his TomKats Hospitality. I had the pleasure of eating there this week, on the anniversary of the first Nashville sit-in that happened there on February 13, 1960, and it is a wonderful addition to Nashville, a museum-meets-restaurant.
Much effort has been taken to preserve the location’s historical elements or to pay homage to them. The original floors on all three levels have been restored, and on the second level, you can see the marks where the stools were located in front of the lunch counters, along with recovered decorative wall tiles from the original Woolworth. In addition to the beautiful Art Deco design (including gorgeous restrooms), there are historical photographs throughout. I was especially moved by a framed group of film where you can see the escalating violence against the activists during the 1960 sit-ins.
The night I ate there, owner Tom Morales happened to be there too, and he was friendly and eager to talk about the historical importance of the space. In addition to the main dining room and recreated counter on the first floor, there is a smaller bar and dining room on the second floor. The basement level will be used for live entertainment. Morales’ love of history and of Nashville is evident when you speak with him. In early promotional photographs for Woolworth on 5th, I noticed paintings by famed outsider artist Mary Proctor. I met Proctor a few years ago and love her folk paintings on rough canvas, doors, and other found objects. It was a fun surprise to learn that Morales is also a fan of her work; the three paintings of hers in the restaurant are from his personal collection.
Visiting Woolworth on 5th should be a requirement simply for the history, but the food! The food is wonderful. All Southern fare, we tried several appetizers and entrees and all were delicious. My Southern family will be shocked to learn that the collard greens were the best I’ve ever had. The cocktails we tried are as good as the food. I had the bourbon-based Shopper’s Delight and will definitely order it again as well as try and recreate its deliciousness in my own kitchen.
Some people may be uncomfortable with a new commercial venture at this location, which is understandable. I’m thankful that after decades of being covered over, elements of its history have been restored and honored. I’m still processing the feelings I had sitting at a counter similar to the one where brave activists were abused. America has a long way to go for racial justice, but eating at Woolworth on 5th this week with a variety of people of beautiful and varying skin colors was a sign of hope that I—and I believe our country—needed.
Visit Woolworth on 5th’s website for hours, menus, and more details about its renovation.
“The history of Nashville is rich and diverse and should be preserved, yet every day we hear about another building being torn down to make room for something new,” said Tom Morales, owner and CEO of TomKats Hospitality. “The Woolworth building needed to be saved, and we are honored to be part of the next chapter of its history.”
Smithsonian Magazine covered the restaurant last year when it was announced and includes an oral history from John Lewis.
Nashville Eater has some beautiful photographs of the restaurant and includes more information about the basement-level ballroom.
